My Amalfi Coast Travel Recap covers all the things to do, see, explore, and eat in the Amalfi Coast! I cover my itinerary through Amalfi, Positano and Capri.
Amalfi Coast Recap
It was just 1 year ago that my husband and I were off to live la dolce vita in commemoration of our 5 year wedding anniversary. It was a trip that we had talked about at length, and had been planning for months. Though our wedding anniversary was in May, we chose to travel in the latter part of the heavy tourist season, opting for late August. All of this in an effort to avoid some of the large crowds and anticipated price gouging.
Spoiler: we still got every last bit of magic that an Italian Summer had to offer.
Where Is The Amalfi Coast?
The Amalfi Coast is on the southern edge of the Sorrentine Peninsula, overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea. Known for its postcard-worthy views and shorelines dotted with precariously perched pastel structures, the Amalfi Coast is the definition of a dream. Shops and restaurants are accessible via the countless stairs throughout the cities that line the Amalfi Coast. One city has aptly been given the nickname of the “vertical city”. While most cities will have porters who you can pay to bring your luggage to your final destination, you’ll still break a sweat. I’d sincerely suggest paying a porter to handle your luggage. We didn’t (“Let’s burn off that pizza…”), and to say it was miserable would be an understatement. Even with those views.
Amalfi Coast Itinerary
We chose to break up our time in the Amalfi Coast by staying in two cities: Atrani and Positano. Atrani, which is the smallest village in Italy, is just down the road from Amalfi. Based on its proximity to the the popular coastal towns and it’s humble price points, staying here was a no-brainer.
Atrani: Italy’s Smallest Village
When planning our stay, we knew that Atrani was situated very close to the city of Amalfi, but we didn’t realize just how close: it was a quick 10 minute walk! While there is a bus that we could have caught, and admittedly, would have been safer, we chose to walk the road that connects the two charming seaside locales. This included walking through a very narrow tunnel (with traffic needing to stop coming either way to let the opposing vehicles through), roadside views of the sea, and the breathtaking site of the city of Amalfi.
Positano: The Jewel of the Amalfi Coast
After just 1 night in Atrani, we packed up and headed for Positano. We opted to travel there by ferry, with the boat selected getting us there in just 30 minutes. Other options could get you to Positano in as little as 10 minutes, but we wanted to enjoy the view from the azure hued water (and it was cheaper!). Positano is where we chose to splurge, staying in a gorgeous bed and breakfast with a view that is truly straight out of a dream. Villa Giusy surpassed every expectation we could have had! With enough space to accommodate just 8 guests, we felt as though we had the place to ourselves. Minimally decorated, excellent service, and located just one small set of stairs below luxury hotel Le Sirenuse, Villa Giusy was everything we could have hoped for during our Positano stay.
What To Do In The Amalfi Coast
We could have stayed a whole month in the Amalfi Coast and still not had enough time to see and do it all. There were a few things that we knew we wanted to do in our far too short stay in the Amalfi Coast. They included getting on the water, taking a cooking class, eating and drinking to our heart’s content, and laying on the beach. Luckily, we were able to fit it all in.
Amalfi Lemon Experience
There was no shortage of cooking class opportunities in the Amalfi Coast. I researched a number of options, but there was one I kept coming back to: Amalfi Lemon Experience.
Lemon Farm Tour
This organic lemon farm is run by a 6th generation lemon farmer and his family. With roots dating back 200 years, the Amalfi lemon, or Sfusato Amalfitano, was born out of the family’s desire to differentiate the quality and taste of their lemons over the competition’s. Amalfi lemons have a thick and wrinkly exterior, and can literally grow to be the size of your head: they can weigh up to 4 pounds! Unlike conventional lemons we’re used to in the states, Amalfi lemons are sweet and fragrant, every component of the fruit being used in local cuisine. The juice, flesh, peel, and leaves being a constant on every menu we enjoyed during our stay.
After realizing that the Amalfi Lemon Experience not only offered a cooking class, but also a lemon farm tour, our decision was made!
The tour was informative, educational, and impressive. Our guide shared details about the family’s history, the growing practices used, allowing us to stop and take photos or sample lemon wedges along the way. Amalfi lemons are so sweet that you’re able to eat a slice whole – without any of the pucker!
Cooking Class
After our tour we were brought to a beautiful outdoor terrace and sat at unique wood-carved tables. We were served lemon cake, fresh squeezed lemonade, and taught how to make limoncello (of which we were able to sample, too!). At this point, the majority of the tour was dismissed and only those who were taking the cooking class reminded. It was just my husband and I and two other women. Small and intimate, with plenty of hands on instruction.
After being poured a glass of prosecco (“to make us cook better”), we discuss our menu for the day. On the lineup is Eggplant Parmigiana, homemade pasta with a fresh lemon sauce, a family recipe called “spaghetti with 7 scents”, and lemon tiramisu.
I can honestly say that this experience was one of the best days of my entire life! Sipping prosecco and making authentic Italian food in an outdoor kitchen overlooking an organic lemon farm. It just doesn’t get much better than this!
Cook Like An Italian
If you aren’t already subscribed to my email list, be sure to do so NOW! I created an e-book with all of the recipes we learned at the Amalfi Lemon Experience, in addition to a few other favorites that I was inspired by during our travels. Some of the recipes included are:
- Scialatielli with Lemon (the lemon pasta which is hands down one of my favorite dishes ever!)
- Steamed Mussels with White Wine and Garlic
- Homemade Burrata Ravioli with Fresh Cherry Tomato Sauce
- The Best Pizza Dough
- Lemon Tiramisu
Trust me – you’re going to try these recipes and make them over and over again! Sign up for email updates below to get your copy of my e-cookbook, “My Favorite Italian Recipes”.
The Island of Capri
A trip to the Amalfi Coast seems moot without spending at least one day on the island of Capri. Known for its rugged cliffs, sparkling water, and upscale accommodations and shopping, it makes for an ultimate destination if you’re wanting to experience pure luxe.
Following an hour long boat ride, with our guide constantly pointing out sites and sharing interesting facts, phonetically addressing the group in his beautiful Italian accent as, “Giiiisss”, we approach the isle of Capri and it’s landmark coastline: Faraglioni. Towering over the impossibly blue water, the three rocks that make up Faraglioni is a quintessential photo opportunity, which better include a kiss. “It’s for good luck!”, says our entertaining guide.
After a day soaking up the sun on the rocks, dipping in to the cool water, spotting both Sophia Loren’s villa and one fo the world’s largest sailing yachts (Sailing Yacht A – look it up!), we make our way back to our boat and back out to sea. In lieu of the lengthy wait times to see the Blue Grotto, we opted to head back to the mainland and swim in a “less populated” cove. I can say with absolute certainty that swimming in these waters is absolutely therapeutic. It was unlike anything I had ever experienced!
Dining In The Amalfi Coast
Food is undoubtedly one of the top reasons why Italy is seen as a top travel destination. The pizza, the pasta, the wine, the bread, the seafood, the olives, the tomatoes…I could truly go on and on. Seeing food as religion, I was determined to seek out the Amalfi Coast’s absolute best dining destinations for our short trip. It wasn’t until while relishing an Aperol Spritz and an impressive amount of Castelvatrano olives on the idyllic shore of Positano that it finally dawned on me: there would be no bad meal in this place.
Here are a few of our favorite and most memorable meals:
Da Gemma
A landmark restaurant impressing guess since 1872, this Italian institution was an absolute delight. Luck was on our side this evening, as we didn’t have a reservation for the stunning terrace overlooking the bustling street below. Almost heartbroken, we’re told there’s a small table at the intimate wine cellar that was recently remodeled to accommodate diners. As if the wine, ambiance, and food weren’t amazing enough, our gracious server, Simone, may be the reason why this meal was one of the best we had on our trip. He was in the process of studying wine, and with a few simple questions about what we like to drink, brought us an incredible bottle that we still seek out. If you get a chance to visit Da Gemma, note that I had some of the best pasta I’ve had in my entire life here. The burrata and black truffle-filled paccheri pasta with seafood sauce to this day enters my dreams.
Mimi Ristorante Pizzeria
Tucked in to the rugged cliffs just 20 minutes from Amalfi is the small town of Ravello. Though it boasts beautiful views of the sea, we opted to check out this town one evening for dinner. Pizzeria Mimí came recommended by a friend, and I’m so glad we took her advice: the pizza was next to none.
It was light, with the crust delicate, lightly charred, and perfectly chewy. Not much was needed to make this already delicious canvas devour-able, so I opted for a light version including fresh tomatoes, basil, and anchovies.
No Italian meal would be complete without a full pizza to oneself, but only after eating freshly made bread mopped with spicy olive oil and tart balsamic vinegar. Seeing as wine is synonymous with water here, we opted for a pre-dinner cocktail as well.
La Tagliata
I had read things about La Tagliata that solidified my decision to make a reservation, though I was apprehensive to believe that some of it would still be true. One article claimed that for an unbelievable price (about $50 per person), you received a multi-course meal to which you had no say over. “You get what the chef wanted to make that day”, it stated. Not knowing what we were getting ourselves in to, and fully preparing myself to pay 4 times that amount per person, we took a taxi to the hill-perched, open air La Tagliata.
The Setting
Nothing could have prepared us for the scenery (even at night!), the food, and the service. After being sat at our table for two and answering the question, “red or white?”, we were able to take in the place. The structure was seemingly made of rustic branches, with plants, bulbs of garlic, wine barrels, and other ingredients decorated the interior. Gauzy, thin fabric was draped dramatically throughout the perimeter, framing the picture perfect view of Positano below. Though the city twinkled from afar, it quite literally took my breath away.
As we continued taking in the perfect ambiance, our heads and hearts all but exploded when a man entered the bustling restaurant playing guitar and singing loudly, encouraging diners to join in the entertainment.
The Food
After our bottles of wine came – yes, plural, as I wanted red, and Nate wanted white – we were also brought or first course: just two simple bruschetta topped with fresh tomatoes and basil. we didn’t realize that the minimalism and size of this portion would not continue…
As the night went one we were served courses that included cured meats, cheeses, roasted vegetables, a savory tomato tart, a whole course dedicated to beans, bread, copious amounts of pasta, a whole course of grilled meat and seafood, and a whole platter of dessert. I would assume it goes without saying that throughout all this eating, we didn’t even need to ask for refills on wine: the bottles just kept coming.
Chez Black
The convenience of Chez Black‘s location makes it an easy choice for dining in Positano. The food, martinis, hospitality, and regular celebrity sitings make it a non-negotiable experience.
As we approach the restaurant, glowing on the boardwalk and very evidently at capacity, we’re hopeful that we’ll be able to get a table. “Table for two”, I say politely to the man who is unmistakably running the front of the house, who takes my hand grandly to his lips as I speak. “Do you have a reservation, my dear?”, he says dramatically, knowing full well that he…could? …Should?…Probably is? A supermodel. My sheepish and abashed response follows and confirms that we indeed do not. “Let me see what I can do for you. Go, sit on that bench and I’ll bring you something”. 10 minutes later, Prosecco in hand, we’re escorted to our table. An exquisite meal follows, along with multiple casual run-in’s with a few familiars.
Celebrity Hot Spot
My husband, being a massive fan of the band Twenty One Pilots, spotted the drummer, Josh Dun, with whom we had a quick conversation with he and his fiancé (Debby Ryan), snapped a picture, and said our goodbye’s and safe travel’s. Not shortly thereafter, we ran in to Tommy Lee and his wife, Brittany Furlan, and I’m fairly certain my husband almost died and went to heaven.
The only thing making this night better? An Espresso Martini.
Arrivederci, Italia!
I’ll be the first to admit it: I’m prone to make statements such as, “I’m never coming home!”, “I seriously may move here!”, and, “I’m just going to skip my flight.”. But in true honesty, I sincerely almost didn’t come back.
This trip, this life-changing vacation, was one that we will remember for the rest of our lives. There was adventure, relaxation, culinary elation, the most unbeatable scenery, excitement, and romance. I will forever encourage anyone who is considering a vacation to this otherworldly destination to throw caution to the wind and go. Don’t even ask me what I would do – just do it all!
If this article proves anything, I hope it’s that you absolutely can and should reach out if you’re considering planning a tip to the Amalfi Coast: I’ll talk your ear off.
Ciao ciao, friends!
I’m enjoying your blog, Jamie, and seeing your dream boat husband, all grown up! We use to live directly across the street from Debbie and Perry. We were there when all three of their children were born. Nathan was always a sweetheart!! You make a beautiful couple! I love that you enjoy life, and good food – and beam your beautiful smile! Being joyful is a huge attraction to others! May God bless you and Nate always.
Oh Rosemary! This note just made my whole day. Nate particularly loved your comment 🙂 Thank you so much for your kind words of encouragement: it means more than you know! Both Nate and I hope you and your family are doing well!